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Using raw fish requires an expert eye to discern freshness. But not all fish used in sushi has to be raw. Smoked salmon, for instance, is relatively easy to obtain anywhere in the world and makes a tasty sushi topping.

Oshi-zushi are squares of rice pressed in a mold and topped with smoked or cooked fish. The mold is usually made of wood, but metal pans used for layered cakes serve as good substitutes.

Line an 8-inch layered-cake mold with clear plastic wrap, making sure to leave some wrapping protruding from the edge. Place salmon slices side by side, not leaving any space between them. Evenly pack sushi rice on top of the salmon and completely cover the surface with large wrapping.

Place a second pan on top, pressing on it so that the rice is squeezed to an even thickness. Remove the pan and the top wrapping and cover with a moistened plate (make sure the plate is larger than the pan!). Turn the pan and plate upside down and carefully lift the mold so that the sushi sits on the plate. Remove the wrap just before serving.

Cut the pressed sushi into squares with a moistened knife to desired size. Cut lemon slices into sixths or eighths and place on top, and you're done!